How To Add Brake Fluid To 2000 Damon Intruder

Topic: Restriction loss

Posted Past: dhiggins on 08/17/x 10:19am Damon Challenger 2000, P30, we took a short trip; 40 mi; the last function was in traffic, I reached the park entrance road sooner than expected so I got on the brakes pretty hard. I stopped at the gate, signed in, slowly through the park to my spot. When backing into my spot, NO BRAKES. Pedel went to the floor. I pulled the emergency brake on the dash. I found no fluid leaks at the wheels and the fluid resevior was full. 2 days afterwards, drove habitation very slowly but no problems. I'chiliad now gun shy of taking another trip till I know what's going on. Aid!

Posted By: sam-rv on 08/17/x ten:23am I'thou no expert simply it sounds like you may need to drain the restriction system of whatsoever air. Just a thought.

Posted By: 2bzy2c on 08/17/ten ten:35am Y'all collection home?? With failed brakes?
That was pretty stupid in my opinion.

Accident investigation officer - "What acquired the accident"?
You - "My brakes failed..two days ago, but decided to drive abode anyhow. But I did drive slowly.".
Accident investigation officeholder - "you have the right to remain silent..."
Approximate - "Then you drove home knowing you had failed brakes and caused this accident? Sentence... $five,000,000".

My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Posted Past: rich racin on 08/17/10 x:36am Yous probably have bad brake fluid. when brake fluid absorbs moisture you will go air bubbles in the calipers when the fluid boils which will let the pedal to get the floor. Later the brakes cool off they work normally. Exist carefully until you go the fluid changed.

rich

Rich & Karen
1999 Coachman Santara
Malibu Tow'd

Posted By: rich racin on 08/17/x 10:45am another idea I but had is that it could be the master cylinder seals are bad. The pedal tin be re pumped back up with a defective chief cylinder after it goes to the floor, so to be on the safe side I would consider having the master cylinder replaced as well as the fluid.

rich

Posted By: MartinDYN on 08/17/10 10:46am Check the power steering fluid. I believe you have a booster that uses the ability steering pump for brake boost power and low fluid volition cause bug. Those systems are a pain to bleed and crave someone who knows what they are doing.

'lxx Jeep CJ5 + Sears Tent(Sold)
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'86 GM Eleganza 31' Grade A(Sold)
'99 Suburban + '74 AS Landyacht(Sold)
'97 Damon Intruder 35' DP CAT

Posted By: dhiggins on 08/17/10 10:50am Thanks Rich. I had a few guys tell me I probably boiled the fluid in the calipers. That's why I had the brakes back afterwards it cooled downwardly. I'm going to replace all the fluid in the unabridged system. I promise that is the only crusade of the problem. Oh, to the guy from CA, NO, I didn't drive dwelling house without brakes. I wouldn't have made it very far. I approximate you missed the role where I said "NO PORBLEMS". Cheers for the help.

Posted By: dhiggins on 08/17/x 10:53am Replacing the master cylinder is a good idea as well, I'll do it. Thanks.

Posted Past: dhiggins on 08/17/x 10:54am Martin, never idea of that. I'll check it also.

Posted By: cpmath on 08/17/10 xi:28am Aye you did bulldoze it with a known problem. You might have had brakes when you left the campground but they could have given out on your first stop. Sooooo, yous left knowing you had a trouble.

Posted By: bsinmich on 08/17/10 11:39am I wouldn't worry ab out the primary cylinder. Your brake fluid has probably captivated plenty moisture over the years that it just boiled with the extra braking. Flushing restriction fluid is now recommended on newer chassis and is a good thought on older ones also. I flush mine every 2 years to avoid the trouble. Some other benefit is when you affluent the brake fluid from all the lines you as well remove a potential cause of the line rusting through from the inside. Utilize a turkey baster and remove all the old fluid from the main cylinder first and then just keep flushing until you get clear at the cycle cylinders. I did it in June and it took 2 litres of brake fluid and xx minutes, with help from my son.

1999 Damon Challenger 310 Ford

Posted By: bill h on 08/xviii/10 01:09am

dhiggins wrote:

Damon Challenger 2000, P30, we took a brusque trip; 40 mi; the last part was in traffic,

Could you have been riding the brakes in traffic? That can practice it.

How old is the restriction fluid? Have you lot had it tested for moisture? That might tell y'all something.

To be on the safe side, I alter fluid yearly. If I were a flatlander, it would be every two years.

NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad

Posted By: bacollins on 08/18/ten 05:50am Brake fluid is hygroscopic, that is it will absorb water. Hither is a pretty practiced article explaining why brake fluid should be flushed periodically.

http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/brakef.htm

2001 Tahoe
2013 Jayco 34XB

Posted By: Macrosill on 08/eighteen/10 06:19am I had a similar experience yesterday too. I lost my brakes about 35 miles from home. I was in lots of traffic earlier that and so perhaps I boiled my fluid also. I take no thought how onetime the fluid is. I had planned on flushing the brakes after this concluding trip but should have washed it before. I am going to change the principal cylinder and perhaps swap out all the original lines for new ones. A couple hundred dollars is well worth the safety of me, my family and my young man drivers out in that location on the roads.

Thanks,
Brian

TT = 2018 Wildwood 31KQBTS
Tv set = 2006 Ford F-350 CC DRW 6.0

Posted By: efenclau2077 on 08/eighteen/10 07:07am I also had the brake loss near Washington DC. I had to have the rotors and calipers replaced , restriction fluid replaced. I too constitute that the front air bags were bad and the front was sitting depression causing the tire to sit at an bending. I think this may have contributed to the overheating problem. I replaced the air numberless with heavier springs and got a front end alignment. Ii years later, before my trip from Florida to NY I had the brake fluid flushed out and replaced. The good news is that the coach ran similar a dream, even up and down the mountains of West Virginia. Once you get the brake issues stock-still you will be fine. Savour!

2000 Damon Challenger P32 Chassis 32 ft no slides

Posted By: Buck62 on 08/18/x 07:17am dhiggins,
I had that happen one time to me on my previous endemic gasser, but I did not lose my brakes totally. It was in stop and go traffice in Tampa, Florida and in mid summer. I noticed that the brake pedal was going down farther to stop the motorhome at each traffic light. I however had quite a ways to go so I pulled off into a shopping center and let everything absurd off and constitute no leaks and a full brake reservoir. After I felt things were cool I drove once more with normal brakes and normal brakes on way the dorsum abode. I took it to my RV repair store and they said I had moisture in the restriction fluid and the braking system checked out fine. I bought information technology used and had no idea if the brake fluid was changed. Had the restriction fluid changed and no hereafter problems, my service center said that the restriction fluid be replaced with new every two years.

Posted By: Buck62 on 08/eighteen/10 07:18am

Macrosill wrote:

I had a like experience yesterday as well. I lost my brakes nigh 35 miles from habitation. I was in lots of traffic earlier that so maybe I boiled my fluid also. I have no idea how onetime the fluid is. I had planned on flushing the brakes after this terminal trip but should have done it before. I am going to alter the master cylinder and possibly bandy out all the original lines for new ones. A couple hundred dollars is well worth the rubber of me, my family and my boyfriend drivers out in that location on the roads.

Alter your brake fluid every two years.

Posted By: Tinstar on 08/18/10 11:20am Some other idea is when yous hit the brakes hard you lot stuck a piston in the caliper. Being stuck, it caused them to overheat, even in that short distance from the gate to your military camp. After cool-down you had braked again.

I pulled and rebuilt my calipers non also long agone because they were sticking ever now so. It is a pretty piece of cake and inexpensive task for a shadetree mechanic.

"> Never laissez passer upwards a chance to get somewhere ">

Posted By: Berjmobile on 08/eighteen/10 05:37pm Some years ago, I had restriction failure. I was in light traffic with no heavy utilise of the brakes. The without alert, the pedal went correct to the flooring. I hit the pedal again and slowly got to a finish. I pulled over and looked for leaks. None could exist found and the principal cylinder was full. Skilful Sam sent the tow truck and off the motorbus went to the shop. Reason for failure was a failed principal cylinder. If my mind, if the brakes are doubtable, phone call the tow truck. Towing is covered and what lilliputian inconvenience it caused was far less and then that caused by an accident. Jim.

JAG
1993 Pace Arrow Diesel
2004 Saturn VUE V6 AT
El Cajon, CA 92019

Posted Past: indiana_pilot on 08/eighteen/ten 06:32pm I've been driving for 45 years and until I joined this forum, never heard of flushing brake fluid based on time. I understand they are problems with the WH chassis and that until it'southward resolved this is 1 of the temporary fixes. Are these recommendations for the Ford chassis as well? It just seems ridiculous to me that for all the money a motorhome costs that blake fluid has to be flushed routinely because of faulty applied science/parts.

Posted By: MartinDYN on 08/24/ten 09:02pm What was the result of your trouble.

Posted By: lyle_47250 on 08/24/10 11:18pm If the pedal went to the floor it's non the power unit. Flush the system and replace the fluid, it should exist done every 3 years or so anyway. I like DOT 5.

Lyle & Ginger and the 82 Revcon

Posted By: 427435 on 08/24/10 09:57pm

indiana_pilot wrote:

I've been driving for 45 years and until I joined this forum, never heard of flushing brake fluid based on time. I understand they are issues with the WH chassis and that until it'due south resolved this is ane of the temporary fixes. Are these recommendations for the Ford chassis as well? It just seems ridiculous to me that for all the money a motorhome costs that blake fluid has to exist flushed routinely because of faulty engineering/parts.

I believe Ford says every 2 years in their F53 manual. Information technology's not really faulty design. It's the nature of brake fluid and brakes that don't get used regularly------------and when the brakes do become used, they may get used very hard due to a 10 or more tons needing to be stopped.

Marking

2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis, 80,000 miles
2003 Ford Explorer toad with Set Brake supplemental brakes,
Prepare Brute tow bar, and Demco base plate.

Posted Past: stugpanzer on 08/24/ten 10:16pm Gosh, where are all the Workhorse bashers? Oh, its not a Workhorse! never heed! [emoticon]

2006 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37C
Mods: EEZRV Products TPMS, Cobra 29LX 50th Anniversary CB radio with Firestik NGP Antenna, Self independent sewer hose

Posted By: RoyJ on 08/25/10 12:02am

lyle_47250 wrote:

If the pedal went to the flooring it's not the power unit of measurement. Flush the organization and replace the fluid, it should be done every three years or then anyhow. I like DOT 5.

Practise NOT use DOT five fluid! Information technology's a silicone based fluid that does not mix with h2o. It works well on a weekend racecar, where the brakes become bled every week.

Perhaps you meant DOT five.one? DOT 5.1 and DOT 4 are both great replacements for the traditional DOT iii, as they're all glycol based and mix readily with one another.

Posted By: smjanes on 08/25/10 07:11am

indiana_pilot wrote:

I've been driving for 45 years and until I joined this forum, never heard of flushing brake fluid based on time. I understand they are issues with the WH chassis and that until it's resolved this is one of the temporary fixes. Are these recommendations for the Ford chassis as well? Information technology just seems ridiculous to me that for all the coin a motorhome costs that blake fluid has to be flushed routinely considering of faulty engineering/parts.

Brake fluid needs to exist changed on all vehicles at timed intervals because it is hydroscopic (it becomes less effective over time due to moisture absorption). The more heat your brakes are subjected to, the shorter the interval.

On my street car, I affluent every three years. On my F53 motorhome, every ii years and on my race motorcar every six months (and bleed them after every race), and it's non because of faulty parts or poor engineering. I've had the brakes get to the floor on the race car and had to use the gravel trap to cease, I won't take that choice with the MH.

Posted By: garry1p on 08/25/x 05:07pm Exercise not use DOT 5 fluid or if y'all remember you should do some inquiry before using it..

Garry1p

1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite Forty
454 on P-xxx Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport